Wine Women: The Female Winemakers of the Burgundy Wine Region
In the world of wine, certain qualities take precedence: knowledge, passion, skill, and respect for nature. Today, gender matters much less than it did in the past, and that's true here in Burgundy too. Despite historical challenges, the female winemakers of Burgundy have proven to be equally skilled at making good wine. Once recognized, their wines are often highly esteemed.
Do women winemakers make different wines than men? Sometimes, yes, and sometimes no. Women may bring different sensitivities and viewpoints to winemaking, enriching the industry. 'Wine women' aim to make exceptional wine rather than make a point. Embracing the differences between men and women leads to a more diverse and inclusive world. Let's explore some exceptional Burgundy wines made by female winemakers and available through Elden Selection’s BurgundyWine.com shop.
The Female Winemakers of Burgundy That Are Featured on BurgundyWine.com
Agnes Paquet
Agnes Paquet’s family has owned a significant vineyard in the appellation Auxey-Duresses since the mid1950s. Until 2000, they rented the land to local vignerons. When the family decided to sell the vineyard, Agnes took on the land herself and became a winemaker. The Domaine Agnes Paquet now spans 13 hectares (over 31 acres) and is locally recognized as one of the leading and innovative wineries of the current generation.
Wines to try from producer Agnes Paquet:
- Chassagne-Montrachet 'Les Battaudes' 2022: this wine is from the hallowed ground of the “Golden Triangle” of white wines, (alongside the other appellations of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault). Good things come from this land, and not just wine – the marble for the Trocadero and the Louvre in Paris was quarried here... This wine is deep and rich thanks to the clay soil, with an earthy texture but nevertheless elegant and airy.
Stephanie Saumaize
Stephanie Saumaize and Pierre Laroche established the Domaine du Chateau de Vergisson in 2012 and quickly gained attention in Pouilly-Fuissé and the Mâconnais. Stephanie and Pierre come from different families of grape farmers, with Stephanie hailing from Solutre and Pierre from Vergisson, villages situated at the base of the prominent limestone outcrops that define the terrain and terroir of Pouilly-Fuissé. If you ever find yourself in the area, you'll not only be delighted by charming wines but also by fantastic sights. Pouilly-Fuissé is a treat for all the senses, located in a natural amphitheater formed by the rocks of nearby Solutré and Vergisson. A visit to the Atrium of the Pouilly-Fuissé Producer’s Association is also recommended. Moreover, the region recently received Premier Cru status for 22 of its climats starting with the 2020 vintage, making it the first in the Mâconnais vineyards to be granted this status. This is likely to further increase the popularity of wines such as those from female winemakers of Burgundy like Stephanie.
Wines to try from producer Chateau de Vergisson:
- Pouilly-Fuisse ‘Sur la Roche’: Pierre’s great grandfather planted the vines which make this wine over a century ago. Their depth and concentration of flavor is incredible – so many flavors to discern including those of the sea, oysters and a wonderful mineral finish which seems to last forever.
Christine Oudin
Christine Oudin and her husband Jean-Claude decided to leave behind their stressful Parisian lives and move the picturesque village of Chichée. Here they raised their two daughters and worked on growing a small 5 acre vineyard near to Chablis. Their success has led to expansion, and today they oversee 20 acres of Chardonnay grapes. The vineyard is managed by sisters Nathalie and Isabelle Oudin. Nathalie has a background in biology and enology, while her sister previously worked in the tourism sector before joining the family business as a full time secretary and vineyard assistant. Their wines are testament to their hard work, respect for the environment and winemaking style that embraces simplicity but also modernity.
Wines to try from producer Christine Oudin:
- Chablis 1er Cru 'Vaugiraut': This Premier Cru Chablis is from the upper left bank of the river Serein and as a result it is full of ripe fruit, but tempered with that wonderful gunflint smoke. Pure and elegant.
Elodie Roy
Elodie Roy is from a winemaking family in the south of the Cote de Beaune (Cheilly-les Maranges to be precise). As a child she helped her parents on their 25 acres of vineyards. But seeing how hard everyone had to work, she decided to pursue a career in law and then worked in a bank. 6 months in, she thought she had made a mistake, decided to study wine instead and has never looked back. She took over the family domain at the age of 38.
Wines to try from producer Elodie Roy:
- Santenay 1er Cru 'Gravieres': Wines from Santenay (a former spa town) change by the yard almost, according to experienced tasters. This one is full of spice, dark chocolate overtones and plums too. Two other words spring to mind too – fleshy and muscular. Try it and see if you agree with us...
Elise Villiers
Elise Villiers began her career in 1989, working with oenologist Veronique Vallenot, at a time when Vezelay, located northwest of Dijon, was considered an insignificant subcategory of appellation Bourgogne. Her wines quickly gained attention, and today her domain covers 4 hectares (just under 10 acres), which she manages with a tractor man and a vineyard helper. Her wines quickly sell out (none were in stock at time of writing, but keep an eye on our wine shop online to see when they come back in stock!)
Veronique Desfontaine
Veronique Desfontaine and her sons Xavier and Arnaud work to produce wines at the Chateau de Chamilly, primarily from the Cote Chalonnaise, Mercurey and Montagny and produce wines under the name of Chateau Cary Potet – rescuing the name when its owner died some years ago. Their work is done according to their motto: “Ex nihilo nihil” – or “nothing comes from nothing”.
Wines to try from producer Veronique Desfontaine:
- Montagny 1er Cru 'Les Burnins': You’ll find some of the best value white wines in all of Burgundy if you look for the name Montagny. This one has orange blossom notes and a mineral attack, but then is smoky and rich with apple acidity balanced with a hint of butter.
The number of female winemakers of Burgundy is increasing significantly. We've had the opportunity to meet many of them and showcase them as hidden gems of Burgundy. One of the most notable figures is Ludivine Griveau, who is the head winemaker at the Hospices de Beaune, making her the first woman to hold this position. She assumed the role in 2015. You can find more information about her here.
Several women-led associations, such as the FEVB in Burgundy (Femmes et Vins de Bourgogne), with approximately forty members representing around thirty estates, demonstrate their ongoing accomplishments. The co-founder of FEVB, Chantal Michel Tortochot, remembers that as recently as 1990, she was one of only three female winemakers out of 80 in Gevrey-Chambertin. Additionally, the percentage of women studying oenology at the University of Bordeaux has risen to around 40% in recent years, and this number continues to grow.
While family domaine names often still reflect the male predecessors, many are now being managed by female winemakers of Burgundy. It's important to recognize that women have always been present in the wine industry, even though their contributions were previously overlooked. They have historically performed crucial tasks around the vineyard that were just as important as men's work, and without which the vineyard could not operate. Let's celebrate the achievements of women in wine, both in Burgundy and worldwide, and raise a toast to the future success of all winemakers.
Visit our Cromey Burgundy vacation blog for recipes and day trip ideas, or read our series of blogs about why you should visit Burgundy. For interesting articles and howto guides, check out our BurgundyWine.com blog or discover the best new wines from the female winemakers of Burgundy in our wine shop at Burgundywine.com. Don’t forget, our Burgundy Wine Club is currently looking for new members – click here to join.