Elden Selections Hidden Gem Makes New York Times Headline
Big news about a small producer landed recently in the New York Times – and it’s one of Elden Selections winemakers. If you’re a reader you may have seen an article about a certain Bénigne Joliet, expert proprietor
of the Clos de la Perrière. He is one of Elden’s producers, has been for a long time, and the 6th generation to take the helm at his domaine in Fixin.
A couple of hundred years ago, the wine world raved about this vineyard, founded by the Cistercians in 1142, in some of the most well-respected books written in the mid-nineteenth century. But somehow, the shadow of an illustrious neighbour seemed to edge closer until it threw shade on Fixin that has lasted to the present day.
Hidden no longer
The prestigious name of Gevrey-Chambertin cast a long shadow, synonymous as it is with some of the greatest wines not just in Burgundy but globally. The terroir there is able to produce wines of great complexity, superbly structured and often deeply perfumed. As a result, you might expect to pay many hundreds of dollars for a typical bottle. But step away from that hallowed ground, even a short distance, and you’ll find yourself in Fixin, which happens to share much of that great earth, and the climate and local passion for wine too. You will have stumbled upon a hidden gem of Burgundy, but one that won’t stay that way for much longer.
Bénigne Joliet’s wine is Premier Cru – that’s right, not a Grand Cru. It deserves the higher status, no question. But there are certain advantages as things stand; when he bought out relatives to keep control of the whole vineyard, he could only do so because the land was not taxed at the higher Grand Cru rate. And of course, for consumers, it keeps the prices down too.
Discover his wine the Elden way
Reading about wine is great, but drinking the wine is the best demonstration of its power and potential. The Domaine Joliet Fixin 1er Cru 'Clos de la Perrière' is stocked in several vintages in Elden’s cellars, and they are also available (at time of writing) in a six-pack or case too. The wine itself is pale ruby red, and at 13% alcohol is anything but a stereotypic ‘rustic’ Fixin. It is very elegant, with sweet fresh raspberry fruit, then cherry. There’s richness and intensity, ripeness and purity, and a tension that tells you it will age well. For those who like their wines complex and seductive, long and exciting, this will not disappoint.
Despite the centuries of history behind him and his wines, Joliet is also a quiet revolutionary. He has radically changed production methods at the Clos de la Perrière during his stewardship, including fermenting whole grape bunches rather than de-stemmed grapes, lending a wonderful fresh complexity to the flavor. The wines are raised in 15% new Troncais oak for 24-36 months with no racking.
For Fixin, the future has never looked brighter. Waiting in the wings is Joliet’s daughter, who has fresh new plans for the domaine. Those lucky enough to discover this gem now will find world-class wines at everyday prices. Elden has been banging the drum for Fixin wines for years; now the rest of the wine drinking world has caught up, why not buy a bottle and toast an undimmed greatness that goes back nearly 900 years?
We have many more fascinating articles and How To guides on our blog – including an exploration of the debate between the names Bourgogne vs Burgundy, and a look at how to find the perfect Burgundy wine glass. And don’t forget our Burgundy Wine Club, open for membership now!