Three principal villages of the Côte de Beaune are particularly well-loved – Meursault, Pommard and Volnay. Volnay nestles between the other two, producing famous, silky-smooth wines. The name Volnay is derived from the God of water – Volen, and it was called Vollenay before its present name. A chateau was built here around 1250, and over the next 800 years or so, Volnay became hugely popular – Louis XI even bought vineyards here. Then, in 1937, it gained its very own appellation. It sits atop the hill of Chaignot – steep, but perfect for the south-easterly facing vines. You could write a thesis on the soil composition alone. Whilst there are no Grand Cru plots here, there are some fabulous Premier Cru vineyards – 29 of them. This is small-producer country, and as such, Elden Selections offers Volnay wines from some of the very best of them. You’ll often hear them described as ‘feminine’ by some of the braver afficionados. Certainly they are soft, complex, delicate even – but they’re intense too in aroma, making a particularly great match for cheeses. If anything, these wines seem to share a structure and character that compares with the best of the Côtes de Nuits – Vosne and Chambolle, for instance.
Volnay
Red wines only. White wines from Chardonnay are grown in the climat of Santenots (a commune of Meursault).
Though some parcels produce tighter and more muscular Pinot Noir, most Volnay is known for finesse. Colors range from ruby to garnet, and the nose is famously of violets, though with age you get the classic Burgundy Pinot secondary aromas of spice and undergrowth. But its precocious fruitiness makes it apt to be opened fairly young, especially in delicate vintages. Its velvety finesse combined with aromatic intensity makes Volnay a partner for sophisticated poultry dishes, roasted and glazed, which meld with the fruit and spice aromas of the wine. Better still, especially for the Premiers Crus, is feathered game, stewed or slowly braised, or simply roasted. The intensity of Volnay also allows it to go well with many full-flavored cheeses.