Gougeres are the nibble in Burgundy. That and a kir (dry white wine with a dash of creme de cassis), and you know you’re in Burgundy. Gougeres are cheese puffs made with pate a choux, one of those mother recipes of French pastry.

I like to use small, firm, but ripe green figs (as opposed to black figs) for this appetizer.

This traditional onion and anchovy tart is found along with Fougasse and other savory pizzas in boulangeries throughout southern France. Quality anchovies and small Nicoise olives decorate the slow cooked herb and onion base. Perfect summer lunch with green salad and chilled Rose wine.

There are many ways to serve this smoked mackerel Rillette. Cucumber rounds, lightly toasted dark bread, endive spears as shown in the photo or served as a starter with a tossed green salad. Once made chill the mixture for an hour before serving.

A savory croissant filled with smoked trout and horseradish pairs beautifully with a glass of Chardonnay. These can be made ahead of time and popped into the oven 20 minutes before serving or eaten at room temperature if made ahead of time.

Everywhere we have been in Europe we have eaten baccala, salt cod, in some form or other. So we brought it home to Burgundy. Here we use it to stuff the zucchini flowers that are abundant in the garden right now.