Château de Vergisson Saint Veran ‘La Cote Rôtie’ 2018
In ‘La Cote Rotie’, Saint-Veran gets serious. The vineyard is situated at the base of the Vergisson rock, so there’s no lack of limestone, which brings with it finesse and subtlety in the nose, and a rich, lemony, mouth-watering saline fruit which is carried on and on to an elegant mineral finish.
BURGUNDY 2018 VINTAGE
There has been talk over the past year of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy being one of the greatest of all time. Comparisons with the mythical 1947, and all that. But let’s be careful and take a closer look.
We’ve tasted some marvelous wines, both white and red, and from all of the appellation levels. Purity and concentration would be the key words across the board.
But lest we forget, 2018 was the hottest vintage in Burgundy since 2003. And frankly, we were expecting wines like we got in 2003: flabby whites and Cote du Rhone-like reds. But that did not happen. And the secret to understanding 2018 Burgundy lies in understanding the difference between these two very hot years.
If you look at 2018 from start to finish, not only was it hot, it was dry: 50% less precipitation than the annual average over the past 30 years. However, if you were here in the early part of the year, you’ll certainly remember the rain.
After a very dry summer in 2017, winter 2017-18 was wet. It rained nearly every day through March and into April. And the vine was slow to bud.
That all changed in the middle of April. Wet soil and higher temperatures brought on explosive growth in the vineyards that the vignerons had a tough time keeping up with. In a week we went from bud burst to unfurled leaves.
The first flowers burst in mid-May. The crop set regularly with very little disruption, and summer settled in. The early wet conditions followed by April’s warmth saw the onset of mildew, but the fungus never stood a chance.
It was a hot and sunny summer. Some would say it was a heat wave and a drought. And we started to see signs of stress in vineyards in certain sectors. Things were better where there was a little rain. But August was bone dry. In fact, there was no rain from June 15th to the end of October.
It was about this time that comparisons to 2015 cropped up. You could see ripeness rapidly approaching, and there was talk of harvest starting at the end of August.
The vines were incredibly healthy; no moisture means no threat from mildew or odium. No rot. Good ripeness.
And, for the first time since 2009….a normal yield! So, let the harvest begin!
And it did, in the last days of August. What was most astonishing right from the start was that the perceived acidity levels seem OK. Granted, there’s no malic acid, but the levels of tartaric acid seem to be compensating, and there is an over-all impression of balance.
Also amazing was the amount of juice the crop produced. Not only was the yield bigger than the past 10 years’ average, but the amount of juice set a record for Burgundy. So there will be a lot of 2018 around.
And all this in a year that felt more like the south of Spain than Burgundy as we know it. The only thing we can attribute the quality of 2018 to is the abundant winter rains, and the vine’s ability to go searching for water when it needs it.
SAINT VERAN
MACONNAIS
The rocky outcrops of Solutré and Vergisson, emblematic of these vineyards, remind us 20,000 years ago one of the most fully evolved prehistoric cultures flourished here. The region is a magnificent landscape, and the wine villages are charming tourist destinations. Pouilly and Fuisse are two distinct villages in the production zone, but their wines and those from the villages of Vergisson and Chaintre are sold under the Pouilly-Fuisse appellation.
Produced in the communes of Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintré.
Wines
Pouilly-Fuisse should be elegant and full of charm, with its distinctive minerality to the fore. It ranges in color from pale to golden, and the nose, often dominated by flinty smoke can be nutty, floral, citric, biscuity, grassy and honeyed, making this one of the most varied of the white Burgundies. Terroir plays heavily in the wines from this appellation, and accounts for the enormous number of named vineyards being bottled separately. An experienced taster can distinguish zones and even individual vineyards. Pouilly-Fuisse, well made, is a noble wine, opulent and structured.
Terroirs
Lying on a foundation of fossiliferous limestone identical to those found further north in the Côte-d'Or, the bajocien escarpments of Solutré and Vergisson owe their dramatic profile to the presence of hard fossil corals which have resisted erosion. The vines are planted on the slopes and at the foot of these two hills on clay-limestone soils of jurassic origin mixed with scree from the upper slopes and, in one spot, schist. The hillsides are cut into by little steep-sided streams which give the slopes an easterly or south-easterly exposure. Altitudes are 200 to 300 meters.
Color
White wines only - Chardonnay
Production surface area
1 hectare (ha) = 2,4 acres
757.20 ha
Food
Rich and complex, Pouilly-Fuisse has a characteristic hint of minerality which makes it work with some noble ingredients like crustaceans (king prawns, lobster, crayfish) and foie gras. When acidity and minerality are in balance, it goes well with white meats such as veal or poultry in cream sauce, as well with the goat's cheese that the region is famous for. Its aromatic power means it can also match spicy and perfumed dishes such as couscous, tajines, or sweet-and-sour oriental dishes.
Appellations
On the label, the appellation 'Pouilly-Fuisse' may be followed by the name of a specific vineyard, known as a climat.
The following climats are village wines from a single vineyard, known as a lieu-dit:
A la Chaneau
A la Cotonne
A la Croix Bonne
Au Bois Billon
Au Bourg
Au Bucherat
Au Buchot
Au Chapal
Au Clos
Au Gaulia
Au Gros Bois
Au May
Au Métertière
Au Moule
Au Peloux
Au Sauge
Au Suif
Au Vignerais
Aux Bouthières
Aux Chailloux
Aux Charmes
Aux Combes
Aux Concizes
Aux Coreaux
Aux Grands Champs
Aux Morlays
Aux Murs
Aux Plantés
Aux Prats
Aux Quarts
Aux Vignes Dessus
Barvay
Beauregard
Bois Dayer
Bois de Lacroix
Bois des Fousses
Bois du Molard
Bois Lafaye
Bois Sansonnet
Bois Seguin
Champ Potard
Champ Ruy
Clos de la Maison
Clos Gaillard
Combe Poncet
Derrière la Maison
En Bertillonne
En Bonnard
En Buland
En Buterie
En Carmentrant
En Cenan
En Champ Roux
En Charmont
En Chatenay
En Chauffaille
En Courtesse
En France
En Larzille
En Nanche
En Ouche
En Pomard
En Pragne
En Recepey
En Ronchevat
En Rontenoux
En Rousselaine
En Servy
En Tancul
En Tillier
En Vallée
L'Arse
La Barrière
La Baudotte
La Bergerie
La Brétaude
La Bucharlatte
La Cadole
La Carrière
La Chardette
La Chattière
La Corège
La Côte
La Croix Pardon
La Dépendaine
La Folle
La Frérie
La Gorge au Loup
La Grange Murger
La Grouillère
La Maréchaude
La Mouille
La Petite Bruyère
La Roue
La Ruère
La Teppe Charpy
La Terre Jeanduc
La Toule
La Truche
La Verchère
La Vigne des Verchères
Lamure
Le Bois des Taches
Le Carron
Le Champ Rocher
Le Clos
Le Clos de Monsieur Noly
Le Clos Reyssier
Le Grand Pré
Le Haut de Savy
Le Martelet
Le Moulin
Le Nambret
Le Plan
Le Repostère
Le Routé
Le Sabotier
Le Sang Clos
Les Belouzes
Les Bois Denis
Les Brulés
Les Chardonnets
Les Chataigniers
Les Chevaux
Les Chevrières
Les Combettes
Les Condemines
Les Courtelongs
Les Crays
Les Creuzettes
Les Croux
Les Fourneaux
Les Gerbeaux
Les Grandes Terres
Les Guilloux
Les Insarts
Les Jettes
Les Longues Raies
Les Ménétrières
Les Murgers
Les Perrières
Les Piasses
Les Plessis
Les Prâles
Les Préauds
Les Prés Hauts
Les Prouges
Les Quarts
Les Robées
Les Rontets
Les Rossins
Les Scélés
Les Séries
Les Terres du Perret
Les Travers
Les Verchères
Les Verchères de Savy
Les Vernays
Les Vieilles Plantes
Les Vignes Blanches
Les Vignes des Taches
Long Poil
Maison du Villard
Mont Garcin
Petite Croix
Petites Bruyères
Pierre Lotey
Plan de Bourdon
Pouilly
Pré de Vaux
Pré des Aires
Solutré
Sous le Four
Sur la Roche
Sur la Rochette
Sur les Moulins
Vergisson
ers Agnières
Vers Châne
Vers Cras
Vers Faux
Vers la Croix
Vers la Roche
Vers Pouilly
Vers Saint Léger
Vignes de la Fontaine
Vignes de la Hys
Vignes de la l'Eau
Vignes de la Roche
Vignes Derrière
Vignes des Champs
Vignes du Riat
Vignes Mottin
Vignes sur la Fontaine