Domaine Jean Fery Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru 'Les Vergelesses' Rouge 2018
Yes, we admit, it can be complicated! There is this red Savigny-les Beaune 1er Cru 'Les Vergelesses', but the domain also makes both a red Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Les Vergelesses’ and a white Savigny-les Beaune 1er Cru both called 'Les Vergelesses' as well. To make things even more complicated, the Pernand 'Vergelesses' and the two Savigny 'Vergelesses' touch another Pernand premier cru called 'Ile des Vergelesses'! Sorry! We do our best to keep it all simple and clear. In addition to being the most complicated corner of the Savigny valley, it is also the most interesting. This Savigny is deeply colored due to the clay and iron content in the soil. It is elegant and powerful, with dominant black cherry fruit, but also blackcurrant, raspberry and the trademark Burgundy wild undergrowth. Delicate with discreet tannins.
Domaine Jean Fery
Domaine Jean Fery & Fils is a family-run winery located in the beautiful village of Échevronne between Beaune and Nuits-Saint- Georges. The vineyards span over 34 acres from the north to the south of Burgundy in famous appellations.
Jean-Louis took over his parents’ estate in 1988 and made his childhood dream come true: providing the family estate with the means to develop further through investment in infrastructuire and the purchase of new vineyards.
The vineyards are farmed organically. They have been certified by ECOCERT since 2011. This requires a lot of hard work and dedication. Jean-Louis takes pleasure in a hands-on operation style, organizing the year-round works on the estate. He is also, it seems, always on the look-out for new vineyards, as the revised list of the domain’s holdings suggests.
Quality is priceless, he says.
Vinification
Vinification in white sees the grapes brought whole with stems attached to the winery where they are pressed immediately with a pneumatic press to avoid any chance of oxidation. The juice is kept cold and left to settle out for 24 hours before being fed into oak barrels (50% new oak) to begin the alcoholic fermentation under temperature-controlled conditions.
There is then a twice monthly stirring of the lees until the end of the malo-lactique fermentation. The wines are then fined with bentonite clay and passed through a light plate filter before bottling.
Vinification in red see the grapes totally destemmed before being put into open vats where a low temperature maceration of 5 days facilitates extraction, keeps the fruit fresh and develops complexity to the juice. Fermentation begins with indigenous yeast (no yeast added). Symbiotic yeasts lend more complexity to the juice as well. Temperature is kept below 30C (higher would stop fermentation) with dry ice and a cooling unit.
As the cap forms, the wine is pumped over the cap to keep it wet and to aerate the juice, further stimulating fermentation. This fermentation last about 3 weeks with the cap punched down 3 times daily to extract phenolics for color and tannin.
The free run wine is separated from the pomace, which is then pressed with a pneumatic press. The free run juice and the pressed juice are then combined, and let to settle by gravity before the juice is racked off the must. The juice is then transferred to oak barrels where it stays through the malo-lactique fermentation. It is then racked to clear it. Red wines of the domain are neither fined nor filtered.
BURGUNDY 2018 VINTAGE
There has been talk over the past year of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy being one of the greatest of all time. Comparisons with the mythical 1947, and all that. But let’s be careful and take a closer look.
We’ve tasted some marvelous wines, both white and red, and from all of the appellation levels. Purity and concentration would be the key words across the board.
But lest we forget, 2018 was the hottest vintage in Burgundy since 2003. And frankly, we were expecting wines like we got in 2003: flabby whites and Cote du Rhone-like reds. But that did not happen. And the secret to understanding 2018 Burgundy lies in understanding the difference between these two very hot years.
If you look at 2018 from start to finish, not only was it hot, it was dry: 50% less precipitation than the annual average over the past 30 years. However, if you were here in the early part of the year, you’ll certainly remember the rain.
After a very dry summer in 2017, winter 2017-18 was wet. It rained nearly every day through March and into April. And the vine was slow to bud.
That all changed in the middle of April. Wet soil and higher temperatures brought on explosive growth in the vineyards that the vignerons had a tough time keeping up with. In a week we went from bud burst to unfurled leaves.
The first flowers burst in mid-May. The crop set regularly with very little disruption, and summer settled in. The early wet conditions followed by April’s warmth saw the onset of mildew, but the fungus never stood a chance.
It was a hot and sunny summer. Some would say it was a heat wave and a drought. And we started to see signs of stress in vineyards in certain sectors. Things were better where there was a little rain. But August was bone dry. In fact, there was no rain from June 15th to the end of October.
It was about this time that comparisons to 2015 cropped up. You could see ripeness rapidly approaching, and there was talk of harvest starting at the end of August.
The vines were incredibly healthy; no moisture means no threat from mildew or odium. No rot. Good ripeness.
And, for the first time since 2009….a normal yield! So, let the harvest begin!
And it did, in the last days of August. What was most astonishing right from the start was that the perceived acidity levels seem OK. Granted, there’s no malic acid, but the levels of tartaric acid seem to be compensating, and there is an over-all impression of balance.
Also amazing was the amount of juice the crop produced. Not only was the yield bigger than the past 10 years’ average, but the amount of juice set a record for Burgundy. So there will be a lot of 2018 around.
And all this in a year that felt more like the south of Spain than Burgundy as we know it. The only thing we can attribute the quality of 2018 to is the abundant winter rains, and the vine’s ability to go searching for water when it needs it.
SAVIGNY-LES BEAUNE
COTE DE BEAUNE
Between the Corton mountain and Beaune, the landscape opens up into a gently sloping valley. Here, the hills of the Côte de Beaune recede a little on either side of the little river Rhoin. Savigny les Beaune is one of the less celebrated, best-kept secrets in Burgundy, mainly because it is hidden away in this valley, away from the north-south wine route that runs through the Cote. For this, its wines are among the best value you will find in the region.
Produced only in the commune of Savigny-lès-Beaune, appellation Savigny-lès-Beaune includes 22 premiers crus.
Wines
Red Savigny is a deep cherry color, going towards garnet. Its bouquet should be of red and black fruits (blackcurrant, cherry, raspberry) and flowers (violet). The body is ample and discreetly tannic and the fruit is generally forward. Roundness, volume and power should all be there. And when the balance is right, Savigny red can be among the most charming wines of the Cote de Beaune.
Savigny whites should be greeny gold, sometimes pale. Its nose is flowery and fresh, biscuity and citric with a touch of minerality in the best parcels. A lively attack keeps the overall effect fresh and clean, fleshy, persistent, and occasionally a touch of spice.
Terroirs
The gradient in this dome-shaped valley is gentle at first but steeper as you climb. Altitude varies from 250 to 400 meters. The lower slopes consist of alluvia from the river Rhoin. Higher, the geology is similar to that of the Corton mountain. At the Pernand-Vergelesses end, exposure is southerly and the soils are gravelly with a scattering of oolitic ironstone. Lower down, the red-brown limestone becomes more clay and pebbles. On the opposite side of the valley mouth, the slope faces east and the limestone soils include some sand.
Color
Red wines - Pinot Noir
White wines - Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc
Production surface area
1 hectare (ha) = 2.4 acres
Reds : 306.19 ha (including 127.99 ha premier cru)
Whites : 41.63 ha (including 12.39 ha premier cru)
Food
Savigny red is solid and mouth-watering, with power enough to match for good cuts of beef, or even cooked foie gras . With roast fowl, the wine's fleshiness will compensate for the fibrous flesh of the bird and in the same way may soften more aromatic poultry dishes. For cheeses, it would do better with creamy types such as Chaource, Brie de Meaux, Reblochon, Mont d'Or or Époisses. The whites are lively with a straightforward attack, so would suit sauced fish dishes, while its richness can stand up to buttery preparations and sauces. It works well with goat cheeses, Gruyère and Comté, and fresh, milky cheeses like Cîteaux.
Appellations
On the label, the appellations 'Savigny-lès-Beaune' and 'Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru' may be followed by the name of a specific vineyard, known as a climat.
The following climats are classified as premier cru:
Aux Clous
Aux Fourneaux
Aux Gravains
Aux Guettes
Aux Serpentières
Basses Vergelesses
Bataillère
Champ Chevrey
La Dominode
Les Charnières
Les Hauts Jarrons
Les Hauts Marconnets
Les Jarrons
Les Lavières
Les Marconnets
Les Narbantons
Les Peuillets
Les Rouvrettes
Les Talmettes
Les Vergelesses
Petits Godeaux
Redrescul
The following climats are village wines from a single vineyard, known as a lieu-dit.
Aux Champs Chardons
Aux Champs des Pruniers
Aux Fourches
Aux Grands Liards
Aux Petits Liards
Aux Pointes
Dessus de Montchenevoy
Dessus les Gollardes
Dessus les Vermots
Ez Connardises
Grands Picotins
Guetottes
Le Village
Les Bas Liards
Les Bourgeots
Les Godeaux
Les Gollardes
Les Goudelettes
Les Petits Picotins
Les Peuillets
Les Pimentiers
Les Planchots de la Champagne
Les Planchots du Nord
Les Prévaux
Les Ratausses
Les Saucours
Les Vermots
Moutier Amet
Roichottes
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burgundywine.com Agnes Paquet
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