A Report on the 2017 Burgundy Vintage
Elden Selections reports on the 2017 Burgundy vintage
Learn about the 2017 harvest, and get a review of the vintage from Dennis and other commentators. Get tips on the pick of the crop and when to drink your Burgundy wines from this vintage.
Why Does Vintage Matter and What Does It Mean?
Not all winemakers place importance on vintages. Some wine is a blend of many different vintages, made across several years. It helps with consistency to do it this way, but it doesn’t usually result in the highest quality wines which attract the highest prices. You may sometimes see N.V on a label, for example on Champagne bottles, which stands for “nonvintage”. Wines from hot climates which are pretty static and consistent are less likely to have vintage years – they always have sunshine, for example, so the wines will be similar in character and strength.
But in Burgundy, they really do go for vintage. Vast amounts are written by commentators all over the world every year about which areas of Burgundy did well, on which vines, in which vineyards. When you have as many variables as you do in Burgundy, watched so closely by so many, then vintages become very important. In Burgundy vintage is important, as it is a much more changeable location for sunshine and rainfall. There’s a bit of a gamble involved when it comes to whether a vintage will be good or not – but the rewards are bigger, if everything goes your way!
Vintages help collectors track a wine’s performance over time. They know that the best vintage years result in wines that have great aging potential, thanks to the favorable levels of tannins and acidity – and that’s the same in whatever wine region you’re buying in, not just Burgundy. Being able to know which years produce the best balances in the wine means you know what to look for, and how much its likely value will be.
The winegrowing year depends on where you are based in the world – so in the northern hemisphere, the grape growing seasons runs from around April until October, whereas in the southern hemisphere it is from October to April. In each vintage year, wherever you’re based, there are several key elements that decide on whether a vintage is good or bad – they are the weather (of course), the winemaker themselves, the terroir, the vines, the grapes, and a bit of luck thrown in too.
From Dennis’s Notebook: The Burgundy Harvest of 2017
The 2017 Burgundy harvest was a much-needed improvement after the challenges of the previous year. While Europe's winegrowing regions were hit by spring frosts, Burgundy was relatively spared. The mild winter left the vineyards vulnerable, and when late April brought freezing temperatures, producers were at risk.
The frost almost devastated the right bank of Chablis, but the rest of Burgundy rallied and took preventive measures. When another severe chilling was predicted on April 27th, producers were ready. They lit bales of damp hay, creating a smoky shield to protect the vines and save the harvest.
While the fires saved the harvest, they brought new challenges. The smog made driving perilous, but the sense of relief and unity among the community was strengthened. Fortunately, May brought warm, dry air, dispelling the threats of mildew, odium, hail, and thunderstorms. The ideal conditions of warm sun and gentle rain in June allowed the vines to flower as nature intended.
July and August were hot, with some real spikes in heat, and a hail storm affecting Morey St Denis. By the end of August, the first grapes were picked, and most harvesters were out in early September. There were debates about when to pick, with some favoring early picking for freshness and acid sugar balance, while others argued for late picking to encourage phenolic maturity.
Interestingly, both early and late picking produced good wines, along with some less satisfactory ones. Early picked wines offered freshness, fruitiness, and good minerality, while some turned out tart and dry. Late picked grapes resulted in wines with denser texture, ripe tannins, and extra phenols.
What other commentators say about the 2017 Burgundy Vintage
Some observers have remarked that the wines from the 2017 Burgundy vintage are of a very high quality whilst not being a ‘legendary’ year, it produced some excellent whites with Chablis having a particularly good year.
The reds were fresh and elegant, although it is worth noting that the quantities made in Beaujolais were cut in half due to severe hail. Some of the reds were felt to lack concentration by enthusiasts, but they nevertheless they admirably captured the spirit of what a Burgundy wine should be. Many commentators have noted that the wine was ready to drink straight away, but that it also had great aging potential, which has proven to be the case.
Interestingly, some seasoned Burgundy watchers claimed that it was a case of learning how things turned out from grower to grower, rather than the more traditional village to village scale. That proves just how subjective things can be in Burgundy, where terroir and the conditions that terroir faces alter almost by the yard.
If anything, the 2017 Burgundy vintage that emphasized the resilience and adaptability of Burgundy’s vines and winemakers alike – given how horrendous the 2016 harvest was for many people, that they could bounce back with such strength and consistency just a year later was a true story of success through adversity.
Our Pick of the Crop – 2017 Burgundy Wines to try
On Elden Selection’s wine shop at BurgundyWine.com, you’ll find the following great wines from some of our favorite producers, made from the 2017 Burgundy vintage. Why not try them out?
Domaine De Suremain Chateau de Monthélie 2017: This wine, from the Appellation Monthélie, is a blend of four distinct vine parcels. Each parcel is processed and aged separately. The yield is very low at 22hl/ha, resulting in a wine with an intense, clear ruby color. It has a youthful fruit and spice flavor that already demonstrates complexity and elegance. This 2017 vintage shows great aging potential, with tight tannins and lively acidity confirming this.
Potinet-Ampeau Monthelie 2017: Monthélie is a great value wine, but it's important to note that there are two parts to Monthélie. Most of the best vineyards are located on the border with Volnay to the east of the village. The wine from Monthélie resembles Volnay with its dense, generous, spicy fruit (both red and black), good concentration and structure, and a finish on violets. The first growth, 'Les Duresses' is an exception, as it is located in the west and is an extension of the best parcel of Auxey-Duresses. This winemaker also offers a Premier Cru version: Potinet-Ampeau Monthelie 1er Cru 'Champs Fulliots' 2017
Jean Claude Rateau Beaune 'Prevoles 2017: This wine has what we call a great structure – dense and full of great tensions between its different parts – floral, and very long on the finish.
Discover the 2017 Burgundy Vintage in Our Tasting Room…
The tasting facility at our home, Domaine de Cromey, combines the atmosphere of a private members' club and a sports bar with a touch of grandeur, all within a sixteenth century former winemaking facility. It's the perfect place to uncork the 2017. Burgundy vintage in luxury. This building used to be the most prominent winemaking facility in the area, supplying wine to the nobles who resided in Chateau de Cromey. Centuries later, the building is once again being used for winemaking, now serving as our main tasting room. We take pride in seeing people enjoy wine in this historic building after 400 years. The original construction has been carefully preserved, with modern updates to make it suitable for wine tasting and related activities. Click here to book your visit today.
