Heart of Burgundy Newsletter - New Year Issue
IN THIS NEW YEAR'S ISSUE:
- Highlights of 2023 Cromey and burgundywine.com
- Taste the Difference - Climate Change and Wine Flavors
- burgundywine.com Palate Advisor - Your Online Taste Guide
- How to Pair Red Wine with Fish
- Our Most Popular Offers This Month
Greetings Friends,
Janus, the Roman god after whom the month of January is named, is usually depicted with two faces, one facing back and one facing forward. And so it has been since ancient times, that on the cusp of the new year, we look back, and we anticipate. 2023 was an exciting year for burgundywine.com and the Domaine de Cromey here in Burgundy. So we'll take a moment to look back at the highlights and the fun. But for 2024, we're back to the Romans, and a shout-out of 'excelsior'. Onward and upward: it's our motto. And it is especially apt as our New Year's wish to you all. 2024 marks 10 years that we have been involved at Cromey, bringing the ethic of excellence and the expertise of a lifetime to home in Burgundy. And in doing so, bringing burgundywine.com by Elden Selections back to its roots. Living in Burgundy, among the winemakers who keep the faith that small-production Burgundy is indeed the future and not the past, keeps us focused on where we have been, who we are and where we have yet to go. And we wish the same for you. Onward and upward. May life be a continuum, like a fine Burgundy on your palate, balanced and long!
All the best from Burgundy,
Dennis Sherman
burgundywine.com by Elden Selections
Highlights of 2023 Cromey and burgundywine.com
2024 is here with all its promise of new things to see and enjoy. But over the holiday period, at burgundywine.com by Elden Selections we also reflected on all that happened in 2023. We also wanted to say thank you — to you, our customers and friends — for choosing us to bring you the very best from Burgundy. Whether it was wine, wine tasting experiences, bidding at the Hospices de Beaune auction, or going on the vacation of a lifetime at Domaine de Cromey – we couldn’t have done it without you. Here are some of the most important stories involving the world-class producers we work with, as well as some of the best headlines seen in 2023.
In March, we took part in the annual Hospices de Nuits wine auction, participating in the sale and banquet. We bought a truly fabulous Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Corvees Pagets 2022, but if you weren’t there this year don’t worry – you can try some of the wines we’ve bought at previous years’ Hospices de Beaune and Nuits auctions here. Or you can come to the auction this year and participate in your own barrel of wine!. The auction is on Sunday March 10 and we could design a stay for you for that and surround dates to suit your schedule and desires.
Then in May came a really special milestone — the first wines from the Domaine de Cromey vineyard, a Bourgogne Blanc 'Le Clos' Monopole 2022 were bottled. Made by our friends and up and coming winemakers, Domaine AMI, the wine is from our historic Domaine de Cromey vineyard—seven acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, called Clos de Chateau. It was a walled-in vineyard in the days of the nobles but has now been restored, because there’s nothing like growing grapes and drinking wines from the terroir of Burgundy. You can’t recreate it faithfully anywhere else, and as soon as you taste it, you’ll understand why.
Talking of tasting in-situ, from June onwards our tasting room at Domaine de Cromey received a record 70 groups over the season, allowing visitors who are not staying at Cromey to taste burgundywine.com wines right here in Burgundy, with the possibility of purchasing directly on burgundywine.com. To read more about our tasting room (think private members’ club crossed with sports bar with a hint of baronial splendour), click here.
We welcomed guests for tours of the local area — everywhere from Dijon, south through the Cote d’Or wine region via the ‘route des Grands Crus’ and the Clos de Vougeot, into Beaune with its glorious medieval Hospices and cobblestone streets, and down into the cellars of our favorite winemakers. We also held tastings, cooking demos, and introduced people to the Cromey parc gardens and our potager (vegetable garden). It’s all organic, all natural, and all waiting for you to discover it.
As the seasons changed and we entered autumn with its mists and mellow fruitfulness, in September we celebrated the second harvest at Domaine de Cromey vineyards. This year includes Pinot Noir Bourgogne Rouge 'Le Clos' Monopole, as well as the Bourgogne Blanc 'Le Clos'. It’s all natural, too; biodynamic production in a vineyard that has never been treated with chemical fertilisers or pesticides.
November brought another highlight of our year, the wine and charity auction at the Hospices de Beaune. We helped a really fun group buy a barrel, making 3 barrels of the 2023 harvest for burgundywine.com by Elden Selections. We are already selling 'futures'…
Back to Top
Taste the Difference: Climate Change and Wine Flavors
Burgundy wine has acquired a special status in the wine world for many reasons. It is built on a huge amount of history and inter-generational endeavor, the soils are amongst the best in the world for growing wine, the grapes are of the highest quality, and the weather and climate are perfect for the grapes, which are loved the world over.
But recently, with the increasing recognition (and fear of) climate change, the climate that was once so reliable and helpful has become a little more unpredictable, as it has across the wine world. Many are wondering whether climate change is starting to make certain wines taste different. (Of course, the wines that you’ll find on burgundywine.com by Elden Selections have all been taste-tested over many years and entered into our new palate advisor tool, so you can always see where on the spectrum they will sit.) But in general, how concerned should we be about the effect climate is having on grapes, both in Burgundy and beyond?
It’s the weather that decides on the nature of a vintage year to year. But it is the climate which drives longer-term changes in that weather. A few more storms or frosts here and there might not seem like much to worry about. But in reality, our changing weather in the long-term has the power to make or break whole areas of wine growing regions, and the people who work there, as well as altering the character of the grapes grown there. Freak weather events such as hailstorms or spring frosts have occurred for many years and can be mitigated to a certain extent. But the difference being reported now is that they are more frequent, and may be happening at different times to what is normally expected.
In Burgundy, the signs of change can already be seen, and as with all change there are some winners, and some who do less well. With warmer weather coming earlier and sometimes leading to high-sugar and low-acid wines, there are increasing numbers of north-facing vineyards such as those in Auxey-Duresses, which are producing pleasingly fresh wines. Likewise, Saint-Romain and the Hautes Cote de Nuits have been benefitting from the changing climate (as we discovered in this recent article.) Wine watchers have also noted that some vineyards with cool, clay soils which in the past lacked mature tannins, are now richer and sweeter, such as in Pommard.
Some growers may find they need to use more interventions due to climate change, sometimes using chemicals. At Domaine de Cromey, our vines grow in the Cotes de Couchois and are at altitude – but they have never had any chemical treatments, and that makes them very desirable from both a quality and a sustainability standpoint.
Where some regions are having to look to different grapes to keep the styles they like, Burgundy has a natural advantage over some in that it already uses other grapes (like Aligoté) which are naturally lighter and more acidic; whether these will be blended with Chardonnay and by how much in future remains to be seen. Perhaps other grapes never before seen in Burgundy might begin appearing? Perhaps that is, for now, a step too far.
On the other side of the coin, the more unpredictable weather is making life harder for some. Winemakers who use rootstocks that don’t do well in climates where there are great swings from dry to wet and back again, are reporting that they have had to rip up vines and replant with others more suited to these conditions.
In Bordeaux, they have recently given the green light to let six new grape varieties be blended into their wines, to raise acidity levels. This was a direct response to sustained warmer weather that producers say is raising sugar levels and lowering acidity in their fruit. This sort of compensation is an attempt to get back to a sort of ‘baseline’ or ‘typical’ wine from that region.
In the case of the Pinot Noir grape, one of the staples of our Burgundy wine region along with Chardonnay, it is now becoming more common to see it growing in countries like Germany thanks to steadily rising temperatures. It can also be seen being cultivated in northern areas which once could not have supported it as well, to try to rein in sugar and boost acidity.
We should of course remember that there has always been variation in wines even from the same plot and grape, between years. Great vintages differ significantly from poorer ones, and because wine production is based on a whole range of delicate and finely balanced natural mechanisms, we should always try to keep an open mind as to the nuances we find in every bottle.
Back to Top
burgundywine.com Palate Advisor - Your Online Taste Guide
In this next segment exploring burgundywine.com's Palate Advisor tool, we look at Big, Bold Red wines and Complex, Structured whites. These are just two of the categories you can select on burgundywine.com, to instantly view a range of superb Burgundy wines, expertly matched according to your tastes. These are not just labels to fit a wine into a category though; these tasting notes are the result of thirty years of living and loving Burgundy.
The Domaine de Cromey—home of burgundywine.com—is imbued with that spirit. It’s an organic, uncompromising, passionate pursuit of excellence in the simplest things. The wines that the palate advisor recommends for you are from masterful winemakers—their best wines, that we’ve followed from vineyard to bottle, vintage to vintage.
Big, Bold Reds
Burgundy as a region is capable of producing a whole spectrum of wines from delicate, to complex, to fruity and bold. This is all the more remarkable as only one grape variety is used almost exclusively for red wines—Pinot Noir. But the varying terroir, weather conditions and personal touch of the winemakers help to give it so many different personalities. The reds that are big and bold are usually—although not always—deep dark red in color, their thick skins showing their tannins.
If you can, look for the great names in ripe, rich wines; there’s no better place to start than the ‘fist in a velvet glove’ style of wines from Gevrey Chambertin. The monk known as Bertin must have liked his wine—and he had a great vineyard to grow it, for it is after this ‘field’ that the wine we now know as Gevrey-Chambertin is named—the field of Bertin, (or Champ de Bertin). There is a vast amount of very high-quality land here, and consequently there are no fewer than nine Grand Cru vineyards (more than any other Burgundy village). Look for those from Domaine Thierry Mortet, or the Domaine Marchand-Freres.
Pommard is a great name in big, bold wines too. The wines of Pommard offer 28 fantastic Premier Crus to be discovered, such as Pezerolles, En Largilliers, Epenots and Rugiens—whose name is a nod to the ‘ruddy’ iron-rich soils here. Domaine Albert Boillot makes an En Largilliers which is grown in soil with a high content of clay, meaning that the wine is deep, tight and earthy. This is one of the lesser-known but outstanding Premier Crus to discover.
And don’t forget Maranges or Mercurey, both of which offer more fantastic, bold wines. These powerful Burgundy wines also give so many great opportunities for food pairings – try them with Côte de Boeuf or even Wild Boar.
Complex, Structured Whites
Don’t think for a moment that you can only find complex, structured white wines at the top end of the market, where you pay the highest prices. The beauty of Burgundy is that there are wines like this at all levels of AOC category (Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village and Bourgogne)—but you have to know where to look. Allow burgundywine.com to suggest a few:
Ladoix may not be the most recognisable name in wine, but it certainly punches well above its weight in terms of quality. This is one of those ‘lesser appellations’ (lesser in terms of renown, not quality), that burgundywine.com by Elden Selections specialises in, and though many wines made here are red, the whites are of the very highest quality. The soil suits white wines; golden straw colored, they smell of flowers and have notes of ripe autumn fruit, plum and apple, pear and fig. They are bright on the palate, often very juicy, but show the firmness of good structure. Their minerality is not unlike their famous neighbor further up the slope, Corton-Charlemagne.
Pernand-Vergelesses is another great example of a wine with both complexity and structure. It is tucked into the junction of two valleys behind the Corton mountain, which it shares with two other villages, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny. It’s no coincidence that there are 8 Premier Crus here and 3 Grand Crus. These Chardonnays from producers like Domaine Jean Fery, and Domaine Marchand-Tawse are white-gold or pale-yellow, turning golden with age. They have a unique minerality with aromas of sweet acacia in youth and later, notes of amber, honey and spices. On the palate they are mineral, like most whites of the Corton mountain, harmonious and charming. Pair these wines with Monkfish, Roasted Tomatoes, Green Olive Tapenade or a delicious Smoked Trout Croissant.
To get full tasting notes for all our wines, as well as specially hand-selected wines from the best of our small appellations and producers, why not become a member of our Burgundy Wine Club? You also get free entry into a draw for a 4-day/3-night stay at Domaine de Cromey. And to read more blog articles about your favorite wines, head over to the blog at burgundywine.com.
Back to Top
How to Pair Red Wine and Fish
There’s a lot to think about when pairing food and red wine – especially when you’re cooking fish. Yes, you read that right – red wine with fish. It’s true that the received wisdom still often says only white wine should be served with fish. But in fact, there are many great red wines which can be drunk with fish – a whole other world of taste sensations that you may not have considered yet. Fish can have delicate, nuanced flavors and can risk being overpowered, so some care is needed. Read on for some helpful tips from burgundywine.com by Elden Selections with examples of red wine and fish pairings!
First things first: what sort of fish is on your menu? Is it strong, oily fish like mackerel or sardines? Meaty like tuna? Maybe it’s got more of a medium texture and flavor, such as trout, seabass or cod. Or perhaps it is leaner and flakier, such as sole or perch. Knowing the fish’s character is key to matching it up with the right wine, as is an awareness of how it is cooked, and what other ingredients you’re using. Is it a spicy Asian dish, or will it be barbecued? Will there be a sauce, and how creamy? (Some sauce ingredients are a natural fit with red wine – think of tomatoes, roasted peppers, olives or mushrooms – even bacon too). Will your fish be served with meat, as a ‘surf and turf’? One thing to consider leaving out, though, is that twist of lemon you might usually use with fish – the acid can clash with the tannins in red wine and leave many of them seeming a little flat.
Oily fish: the fat in oily fish and the tannins in red wine complement each other very well – the tannins can often help to release the flavor of fats in the fish such as salmon, sardines, trout and mackerel, whilst the fat smooths out some of the more stringent tannins. Light, juicy, delicate reds like Burgundian Pinot Noir go famously well with salmon, especially when its cooked simply. Consider chilling the red wine too slightly for very oily fishes.
Meaty fish: tuna is the best example of this type of fish, and again it makes a great match for Burgundian Pinot Noir. Tuna is rich in iron, and this can accentuate the fruitier notes in the wine. This pairing works well whether the tuna is raw in sushi with a touch of spicy wasabi, or cooked. In particular, meaty fish also goes well with wines from Beaujolais, perhaps a Cru Gamay, as well as slightly heavier Pinot Noirs such as those from the Cote de Nuits. If you’re grilling or barbecuing your fish, the typical red wine flavors like smoke, tobacco and dried herbs will be a real winning combination.
Light, flaky fish: pike and perch are good examples of more delicate, white-fleshed, fresh-water fish. A great recipe to try is this one for Pike-Perch with Black Trumpet Mushrooms which is also served at Domaine de Cromey. A Jean-Jacques Girard Bourgogne goes surprisingly well if you’re looking for a red to pair it with. Another great idea is to serve fresh-water fish with the meurette red wine sauce you would use in an Oeufs de Meurrete dish. A reasonably priced Pinot Noir or perhaps a light Beaujolais works brilliantly. This sauce requires fruit and acidity, but nothing that would overpower the dish.
As you can see, if you know what to look out for and get to know these general rules which help avoid bad pairings, then drinking red wine with fish dishes doesn’t have to be difficult or complicated. Above all, remember that if it works for you and brings you pleasure then it’s a good pairing. Be brave, uncork that red Burgundy and try it with fish tonight!
Back to Top
Our Most Popular Offers This Month
Explore the pinnacle of Burgundy's quality and outstanding value at burgundywine.com by Elden Selections. Ensure you catch our most recent and highly coveted deals from the preceding month.
Red Burgundy
Domaine Pierre Thibert Chorey Les Beaune 2018 and 2019
Delicate and supple, rich and full of Pinot Noir character. Crimson with classic red and black fruits set off by earth and spice. Good and subtle tannic structure finishing long on fruit. 6-Pack $279 or Full Case $558
Winter Warmers Red Collection
Now is the ideal time to stock your cellar with our best selections for winter. These gems combine spice, red and black fruits, and smooth tannins: the ultimate companions to dark, chilly nights or a bit of snowfall. Keep warm this winter with this case of 12 delightful reds, perfect alongside chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Full Case $646
Gabin and Felix Richoux Irancy 'Veaupessiot' 2014 & 2015
This is Pinot Noir in a style all its own, with delicate cherry fruit and brooding minerality. This single vineyard 'Veaupessiot' sits on a point over looking the river valley with perfect exposition. Gabin and Felix Richoux holds back their wines until they feel they have developed enough. 6-Pack $348
White Burgundy
Pierre Brigandat Champagne Brut Tradition
Strange as it may sound, this 'Brut Tradition' is an ‘assemblage’ of 100% Pinot Noir cuvees. 25% is from what Bertrand Brigandat calls the 'cuvee reserve', wine from previous vintages set aside for blending purposes. While so much Champagne these days tastes of under-ripe fruit and yeast, this 'blanc de Noir' is a real wine, with finesse and elegance. The roundness of the Pinot fruit is balanced with a bright acidity, and the soft pearl of the bubbles brings up aromas fresh and floral. 6-Pack $372 Full Case $744
Left Bank vs Right Bank Chablis 2019
The River Serein runs through the Chablis valley. Wines from the left bank are more mineral and fresh; wines from the right bank are rounder and opulent. Two excellent examples from Jean Dauvissat Pere et Fils. 6-Pack $384
Mixed Red & White Burgundy
Domaine Germain Saint Romain Red and White Mixed Case
A few years back, we were in a restaurant in Nolay and ordered a bottle of St. Romain from a producer we had never tried before. And it blew us away. We’ve been telling you ever since that if you appreciate the Elden Selections palate, you have to try these wines from the domaine Germain Pere et Fils. You won't believe just how good they are, both red and white. 6-Pack $363 or Full Case $726
Valentine's Day Mixed 6-Pack
Get ready for Valentine's Day with this mixed red and white 6-Pack. Share with your Valentine all there is to love about Burgundy. 6-Pack $382
Back to Top